Saturday, October 17, 2009

Babushkas

As another teacher observed last night, babushkas rule this country. You see them everywhere, stomping resolutely down the street in their sturdy black shoes, heads covered with floral-patterned headscarves in the Russian Orthodox style. Most of them stand 5' 0 or less, but don't let this fool you: babushkas are battleaxes. If you're poky getting off the train you're liable to get shoved, hard; tracing the shove back to its source you find a small shapeless bundle that on further inspection reveals itself to be an elderly woman wearing approximately 27 layers of clothing, none of which hinders her mobility in the slightest. Yesterday I saw a very tiny, very old woman dash across Gogol Street against the light. Buses were bearing down, but she hiked up her skirts, tucked up her parachute-sized handbag and stuck her head straight out in a dead run. She was grinning at herself as she did. I really liked that woman.
They sell things on the street, all kinds of things, in all weather. The ones who gather by my train station favor roses, nylons, and live animals. They sit on boxes by the hour, with whole litters of kittens buttoned into their overcoats. Or along certain stretches of the road from Zelenograd to Moscow, spaced every fifty feet. I always wonder what these women think of each other. Do they get along? Are they comrades in capitalism? Or do they sneak around when the others aren't looking and dump bleach in their rivals' watering cans?

When I first moved here, I didn't understand my front door, and the babushka who lives behind the entrance window of my building used to shout at me (when I tackled the complicated problem of unlocking it), "otkritye, otkritye!' meaning 'open it, open it!', gesturing to the same. Realizing that it was already unlocked, I would quickly forge through to the hall, but she stood up and followed me, saying 'otkritye, otkritye!' to drive it home until I said, Yes, yes, I know now, in a heavy accent, whereupon she threw up her hands at my helplessness and went back to watching dubbed soaps.
[As a side note, that's how my babushka introduced herself to me: What is your name? -Lily - How nice, Lily, I am babushka.]
Now we're friends, and she greets me in English with "Hello childrens! How are you! Goodbye!" when I come in. But being a foreigner I often do things that strike her as strange and alarming, like walk around in shirtsleeves when the temperature is 50 F or less. So I get a lot of, 'Aren't you cold?! Don't you know it's winter? Do you wish to die?' from her and from the flock of ladies who sun themselves outside my apartment in the mornings when I'm going to work. One bawls me out when I put the trash down the trash pipe the wrong way, and another when I take the stairs instead of the elevator. Silly foreigner! They know I'll change my ways in the end.

1 comment:

  1. And I thought these women were some kind of Russian-stereotype-leftover from communist days!

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